Syllabub; the breath of angels

The author sampling a marigold tart
Picture taken at Aston Hall, 2011

Syllabub is a decadent and glorious foodstuff, and one that few people believe goes well with gammon ham, shropshire biscuit (a shortbread), good cheese and red fruits but the combination is truly heavenly. Equally eaten from fresh rosemary it's very fresh and refreshing.

A syllabub in a fine dish or bowl makes a great (and spectacular) pudding for a modern dinner party with a historical edge, or served in individual bowls or glasses (a wine glass is very good) - decorate with some cinnamon or nutmeg (if you like such things) or with some finely grated lemon rind and with fresh rosemary.

Trust me - I'm a fat man who knows food!

There are many good recipes on the internet for such foodstuffs, historicfood.com is a very fine website and their page on syllabubs is very worth while, though the BBC food website has some fine ideas too!

I am sometimes asked to produce foods for splendid Tudor or Stuart feasts (most often for smaller regimental events as part of Sir William Pennyman's Regiment of Foote, part of the English Civil War Society) we usually present a high status table as the common perception is that bread, cheese and pottage isn't very nice - though it's not true as a future blog post will demonstrate).

Here then is an evolution of a syllabub, which is the one I use, and which came from a dear friend of mine (the transcription is his, and the experimentations of the original recipe to discover how best to make this marvellous dish represent the sort of sacrifices which he is prepared to make for knowledge!)

The Original Recipe; a 17th Century delight

Recipe taken from Sir Kenelm Digby's The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened, p115-116

My Lady Middlesex makes Syllabubs for little Glasses with spouts, thus. Take 3 pints of sweet Cream, one of quick white wine (or Rhenish), and a good wine glassful (better the 1/4 of a pint) of Sack: mingle with them about three quarters of a pound of fine Sugar in Powder. Beat all these together with a whisk, till all appeareth converted into froth. Then pour it into your little Syllabub-glasses, and let them stand all night. The next day the Curd will be thick and firm above, and the drink clear under it. I conceive it may do well, to put into each glass (when you pour the liquor into it) a sprig of Rosemary a little bruised, or a little Limon-peel, or some such thing to quicken the taste; or use Amber-sugar, or spirit of Cinnamon, or of Lignum-Cassiæ; or Nutmegs, or Mace, or Cloves, a very little.

Modern  Recipe; a transcription of the above

Ingredients:

400ml double cream
100ml dry white wine (a Riesling would be good, according to the original recipe)
50ml sack (traditionally this was Madeira, but any fortified wine such as sherry, marsala or port will also work)
50g caster sugar
grated rind of half a lemon
ground cinnamon to decorate
caster sugar for dusting

Method:

Stir together the white wine, sack, caster sugar and lemon rind until all the sugar has dissolved. Stirring with a whisk blend in the cream and then whip lightly until the mixture becomes slightly bubbly. Pour the mixture into half a dozen large wine glasses. If you wish you can decorate with a slice of lemon at this point. Place in the fridge and serve cold sprinkled with a little nutmeg and a dusting of caster sugar.

Cheating Recipe; a very quick luxury

Even easier method – add some brandy or whatever to some double cream and whip it. Job done.